May 16

Irkutsk

We have just completed a fabulous tour of Irkutsk where we heard a music presentation by extraordinary opera singers and also visited a real dacha where we enjoyed a delicious homemade lunch. The dacha was fully winterized and lived in by a retired hydro engineer and his wife, who provide this service to tour groups as a small business venture. So it is not typical, but most of the dachas in the “cooperative” are; and while they aree a bit more modest than this one, they are in much better shape than those along the Siberian railroad. Our very excellent guide, Svetlana, has a dacha herself as does Ektratina, along with roughly 80% of Russians who live in cities (according to Svetlana). It would appear to be a fundamental ingredient of surviving the long winters and the ups and downs of living here. My advice to Putin: you can mess with a lot of stuff here, but you mess with dachas at your own risk.

So what else are we learning about Russia as we head for Lake Baikal, the last stop before we get into Mongolia ? Here are some observations:

1. It is a big country. Ok, you knew that already, but when you are on a train and see the open space mile after mile after mile, you begin to get an idea of what big is, and we are only just over half way on our Siberian journey.
2. Much progress has been made since our last visit in 1993, but there is still a long way to go. Moscow is totally a different city and unrecognizable to us from what we remember in 1993. While we did not visit Kazan, Yekaterinburg, Novosibirsk or Krasnoyarsk in 1993, they have enjoyed revitalization as well. New skyscrapers and modern buildings dot the cityscape, tower cranes are numerous, and shopping malls and upscale stores are everywhere. Restoration of old buildings is in progress. Cities are generally clean and have much less graffiti (Hurrah!) than Western European cities though when asked why, people just say “police.” Old buildings—some decrepit—have not disappeared, but overall the four big cities we have visited–all over one million people– seem generally healthy.

Not so with the villages. If anything most along the Trans Siberian railroad seem in worse shape than in 1993. Few roads are paved. Tin roofs remain on most houses, many of which seem on the verge of collapsing. Many villages resemble the old shanty towns we used to have in the South and still have in Appalachia, or the African villages and informal settlements of today. It is not clear how many houses have running water, but there are surely a lot of outhouses around, so probably not many.

Near the larger cities there are also communities of dachas, which are not to be confused with “villages” since they serve as second homes for weekend escapes and vacations. (Dachas supposedly do not have chimneys and that is supposedly how you tell the difference.) However, many of the dachas look a lot like the villages and are in similar condition. (What I did not know is that the big surge in the construction of dachas occurred during the early stages of Communism when land was given away in order for people to build homes and grow their own vegetables as one way of dealing with the food shortage.)

Crossing Siberia in 1993 and crossing it again today leave one with the same impression: Russia is still in some respects a Third World country.

Yet our guides caution us that the villages that we see from our train are not representative and generally are there to house people who maintain the railroad tracks. Other villages are superior. The “dacha cooperative” we visited today was definitely in better shape and actually very modern and comfortable.

3. While there is nostalgia for some aspects of the past—particularly the safety net and relative economic security—I can’t see the country returning to Communism. As the saying goes, “That train has done left the station.” Too much has changed. Putin’s actions are nationalist, not ideological. No one we have talked to or heard about is talking about destroying shopping malls or skyscrapers or outlawing Chanel or Louis Vuitton or cut off jeans.
4. There are also many other differences between Putin’s actions now and the Communist system. One is the role of church and state. The Communists were atheists, required people to sign atheist “creeds,” and destroyed or converted tens of thousands of Russian Orthodox churches to other uses. Most of the Orthodox clergy were executed or became political prisoners in gulags. Under Putin, the church is back big time. The Russian government has spent billions of rubbles restoring or rebuilding Orthodox churches destroyed by the Soviets and has even financed construction and restoration of mosques and upon occasion synagogues. You could argue that this is simply a way of controlling or taking over religion, which could well be the case. Just like the old days when the czars ruled Russia, church and state now show signs of appearing pretty close. For the moment this seems to be working and has helped enhance Putin’s popularity. For the long term, when the church and the state become too close, it usually spells trouble.

Also under Soviet rule, tens of millions of Russian citizens were murdered or imprisoned in gulags. Under Putin there have been mysterious deaths of oligarchs and reformers, but very few; and our guides and the various people we have talked to seem to speak freely and do not hold back on their political views.

The guides also openly describe Stalin’s “reign of terror” and cite the statistics of 15-20 million murdered while he was in power. Some leaders, like the Mayor of Kazan, remain critical of Putin, yet have not been squelched. We have not had the impression that we were being watched or followed though some would argue I am naïve about such things. For us, however, Russia does not feel like a dictatorship or totalitarian state.

5. The Russian people are tough. They survived the czars, the two world wars, which took the lives of millions, the reign of terror under Stalin which took many millions more. Nothing like this has ever happened in the US. Yet they keep going and are proud to be Russian. Here in Siberia they also endure weather that seems intolerable—highs in the summer of over 100 degrees, lows in the winter of 20 below or lower. These Russian people are strong and resilient.
6. Russia is diverse ethnically. There are something like 140 ethnic groups in Russia, representing about 20% of the total population, and most people say that that ethnic diversity is now respected.
7. The Russian view of Putin is very different from the Western view. His popularity is real, not some concocted poll. The reasons have little to do with ideology but with what he is perceived to have done for the Russian people. He has restored the pensions, which had been reduced to practically nothing. He has been present at the site of natural disasters and provided funds for relief. For a good a while, strong oil and gas prices were lifting most boats, and he got credit for that. He has rebuilt churches and mosques. For these actions he gets high marks from most Russians .

Many here even see the Crimean intervention and Russia’s role in the Ukraine as justified and reasonable. Almost everyone says only a ruler who is powerful can hold Russia together; and if not Putin, then who?

8. Ironically while Putin is perceived as the strong man who is right for Russia, several people we have talked to believe that behind Putin there may be an invisible force which is really calling the shots. They suspect remnants of the KGB or oligarchs or some combination of the two. As the saying goes, just because you are paranoid does not mean people are not out to get you.
9. Just as we are learning more every day, every day the complexities multiply, and it seems harder to make generalizations. I am reminded of the comment about India: stay three weeks and you know it all; stay three years and you know nothing. The last local guide said, “If there is one thing that I want you to go away with it is this—that generalizing about Russia is very dangerous. This is a large and complex country with differences by region great and small.”

Ekatrina, our primary guide, said this today at the vodka tasting as our train chugged along toward Irkutsk: “ Russia has always been multi dimensional. The Russian government and the Russian people are not the same. They have always been separate and always will be. But the Russian people are great. We are survivors.”

 

WiFi is limited as we get deeper into Siberian and there is no telling when we will find a hot spot next. Maybe Ulan Bator in Mongolia in five days. Stayed tuned.

May 14

Siberia

Every day or so I keep a diary to remember the events of each day. Joe suggested I type it up for you, to convey some of four experiences on the Trans-Siberian Railway.

We are now on Day 3 of our very pleasant train journey across Russia. We arrived in Siberia yesterday, after two days on the train. Siberia composes most of the geographic area of Russia, but has a small proportion of the population ( 15%). Siberia is not an administrative area, but rather the entire geographic area east of the Ural Mountains.

I am writing from the top bunk of our tiny cabin. The logistics are a bit challenging. For example, it is quite hard to get up to go to the bathroom at night. You risk your life going up and down a narrow ladder in the dark, so I try not to do so. But after vodka (hard to avoid here), wine, and water before and after dinner, it is hard to avoid this challenge.

The first day we stopped in Kazan, which is the capital of Tatarstan. We are really getting a sense of the diversity of this vast and under populated) country (with about 143 million people in Russia and only 1 million in all of Tatarstan). Tatars are one of Russia’s 160 ethnic groups. They are partially self-governing (and proud of this). Katarina (“Katya”), our excellent guide throughout our trip, is from Kazan and served as our local guide.

The Tatars, a Turkish-language speaking group who were converted to Islam in the 900s, were conquered by a grandson of Genghis Khan in the 1230s, as part of the widespread surge of the powerful Mongol armies into Europe and Asia. Then in turn, they were conquered by Ivan the Terrible in the 15^th century, at which time they were forbidden to openly practice Islam. Catherine the Great discovered three centuries later that they were still practicing their faith, and she allowed them to openly practice their faith and build mosques. Then there was another religious persecution under Communist rule when many of the numerous mosques were destroyed. Mosques are again being rebuilt (many receiving government financial assistance), as are churches, since the 1990s; and currently mosques outnumber churches.

Over the centuries ethnic Russians moved into the area. Now 48% are Russian, Orthodox, and Russian-speaking; equally 48% are Tatar, Muslim, and Tatar-speaking. But there is intermarriage, and children speak both languages in school. (However, we did not notice street signs in Tatar.)

We visited the “Kremlin” (or fortress), which is high on one of Kazan’s seven hills. (They are proud that, just as in Moscow, which has seven hills.) One of the buildings is very old, a watchtower dating back to the 14^th century, but most are from the 19^th century. There is also a huge and beautiful recently-constructed mosque, built with both money from Moscow and local money (but no foreign funds, although our guide said that many imams now go abroad for training, leading to a conservative trend in Islam in the country). It was built in part to commemorate the recent millennium celebration for the founding of Kazan.

In general, throughout our trip so far, we are very impressed with the huge investment the national government, local governments, and wealthy people have made in rebuilding the churches, mosques, and synagogues. It is as if the entire country has been “reconquered” by the traditional religions of the past. (We have not seen much evidence of Protestant or Roman Catholic religion, however.) In addition, these buildings are not serving as museums. In all cases, we have seen active worshipers in every religious site. It is as if Communism never happened when it comes to religion (except that many of the buildings are new.) The question that keeps coming to my mind is: “How did all these people learn how to practice their religion—ie.   (in the case of Orthodox churches) kissing icons, crossing themselves, praying in front of icons.” It was required to declare yourself an atheist when joining the Communist party, but many people obviously lied about this aspect of their lives; Vladimir Putin himself is a baptized Orthodox Christian and attends services on important days. While the Communists did not knock down all these buildings, they ruthlessly destroyed most of them. Perhaps practicality won out in the end in some cases, since some were used as administrative or storage facilities, and some became museums.

Back to the Kazan: We took a “city tour” in the bus. There are some beautiful old buildings, happily preserved, although there are few of the beautiful wooden ones left, due both to fires and being knocked down.

The last stop of our Kazan visit was to visit a music school where we heard an amazing performance by eight young musicians, ages 8 to 18.  This school has produced musicians for orchestras all over Europe. It is impressive how pervasive music and arts education are here, and how much of a difference that makes in the cultural life of this country. Everywhere you go you see theaters and posters for concerts, and there are many museums, large and small, everywhere. We are impressed that we always see children in attendance at either concerts or in the museums. This is another way that a love of the arts is introduced at an early age.

The second day of our train journey we stopped in Yekaterinburg, a large city (4^th largest in Russia) that was formerly closed to outsiders in Soviet times due to nearby military facilities. The city is now trying to develop their tourist infrastructure and encourage tourism.

The most interesting tourist site is the place where the last Russian Tsar, Nicholas II, was killed along with his wife and four children, in 1917, during Russia’s bloody civil war. The actual site, a home of a rich Russian engineer where the royal family was confined, existed up until the 1960s when it was knocked down on the orders of the local Communist official, Boris Yeltsin, because it had become a pilgrimage site for “monarchists.”

Yeltsin lived to regret this act. As the first president of the Russian Federation after the collapse of the former Soviet Union, Yeltsin attended the ceremony at a St. Petersburg where the remains of the royal family were entered (having been discovered in a grave near Yekaterinburg) along with most of Russia’s previous monarchs. All six of the murdered royal family have now been canonized by the Russian Orthodox Church.

On the site of the murders, there is now a huge Orthodox Cathedral. There were many active worshipers in the cathedral when we visited, many placing flowers beneath the plaques for the Tsar, his wife, and each of the four children. There was a huge pile of toys for the young Tsarevich. Regardless of your opinion of monarchy or the Russian Tsars, it was a touching sight, since it demonstrated an outpouring of guilt for what was done. (Apparently French tourists are somewhat puzzled about this, and someone said, ”What are you so concerned about? We killed off our royal family and think nothing about it!”)

Otherwise, I found that Yekaterinburg was not a very interesting city to visit. There is a huge statue of Lenin in the town square, and “Lenin Prospect” is the main street of the town. Apparently there were discussions about taking down the statue and changing the street’s name. For now they are leaving them because it costs money, and our guide added, “After all, this is part of our history, and the Communist Party is legal in Russia, so we might as well leave it the way it is.” They did change the name of the city back to its original name, but a lot of the “name changing” happened in the 1990s, and now there is a loss of momentum.

There is a lot of what our guide called “constructivist” architecture, and I would call “ugly Soviet-era buildings.” He did point out a rather lovely “Stalin Empire” style building. I generally don’t like the Stalin-era architecture, but this one was made of red brick and had some nice statues, so not bad.

We visited two other interesting sites out of town. The first was a shrine commemorating the murder by Stalin’s orders of 15,000 people. There were numerous large plaques, with names of all the victims killed in 1936-37 and buried together in a mass grave. The grave was discovered when the highway was widened, and the name of each victim was found in the archives that were opened up. At last, there is the beginning of a movement to document the horrors of the massive purges under Stalin. They estimate that somewhere between15 and 20 million people were killed in the purges and died in the gulags.

The last stop was to see a music presentation by “Cossacks” at the border between Europe and Asia, which is not far from the city. (Cossacks are not a specific ethnic group, but are rather the descendants of soldiers who were sent by the Tsars to conquer Siberia. They are now reviving some of the music and costumes of these colorful people.) I was invited to play one of their percussion instruments, and join the performance, which I did.

May 13

Siberia

We are chugging along the Siberian plain in our eight car train, which is now attached to a conventional train with another 15 or 20 cars, making this one very long train. The landscape is occasionally dotted with decaying grey wooden homes with ten roofs in small village clusters with no paved roads; but otherwise it is vast and vacant with groves of birches, endless brown and green grass, and lots of standing water left from melting snow and heavy spring rains. Novosibirsk, the capital of western Siberian is our next stop, late this afternoon, and then  three other cities before arriving in Irkutsk and then Lake Baikal. There is lots to catch you up on.

The beginning of the Siberian Odyssey got underway five days ago in Moscow where we changed hotels to meet up with our tour group. Switching from one hotel to another turned out to be a challenge since half the streets in Moscow were closed for the May 9 VE Day celebrations. Two strong, young hotel attendants helped us roll our bags a few hundred yards down a back alley connecting with another main street where we flagged down a taxi.

Of all the things to be wary of in Moscow, taxis are high on the list, notorious for overcharging unsuspecting tourists. Some would argue that I am the quintessential unsuspecting tourist. Well, this cab driver not only charged us a reasonable rate when the roads leading to our new hotel were closed off, he parked the cab and escorted us cheerfully (rolling my bag, while Embry rolled hers) a good quarter mile to the hotel.

The second hotel–Moscow Kempenski–was even a notch above the Intercontinental. Situated next to the Moscow River , it provided spectacular views of the Kremlin and had a luxurious bar, fancy restaurant and world class fitness center. The grand fireworks show that evening was directly above the hotel.

At dinner we assembled for the first time as a group. Who would these people be? Where would they be from? Why were they on the tour?

Since we are now on Day 5 of the Siberian Odyssey, we have gotten to know many of them and in a strange way getting to know this odd assembly of adventurous travelers may  be worth a good portion of the price of admission. Here is a brief summary:

There are 99 people on the tour occupying eight train cars. There are about 40 Germans, roughly the same number of French and a handful of others—mainly Swiss, Italian and Spanish. There are five Americans, along with several Brits and one Irish couple. Our group—the English speaking group—consists of 18 people, all the native English speakers plus four middle aged Israeli guys, a mother-daughter(twenty-something) couple from Barcelona, and a young Italian couple, who are on their honey moon. We are not the oldest. There are two energetic, British ladies travelling together who are probably around our age. Except for the young Italian couple, everyone else is “advanced middle age” or older.

After five days of traveling with these people, I am happy to report that everyone we have gotten to know is friendly, and there are no complainers. Enthusiasm about the trip and about Russia is high. It is a good group, and certainly a diverse one. We all eat together and take the same bus when touring towns and cities along the way with our English speaking guides.

A word about the guides: they are about as good at they get. The person who is heading up the entire tour is Hans, who works for Lernedee, the German company which is tour operator. He speaks English with an American accent and could probably pass for an American in the US. He has a contagious sense of humor, gives thoughtful and informative lectures over the loudspeaker in both English and German (sometimes in French) on various Russian topics and is ubiquitous. He came up to me yesterday calling me by name (no one has a name tag) asking what I thought about Russia. Does he know everyone’s name on the tour? It turns out that Hans’s real specialty, however, is China. He lived there eight years, writes and speaks  Chinese; and when he is not leading tours, he is running a small management consulting practice assisting Germany companies doing business in China.

The person who is responsible for the 18-person English speaking group is Ekaterina, a Russian probably around thirty and like Hans, an excellent English speaker. She diligently keeps us together and on time and is herself an authority on many things Russian. When we take a tour of a city along the way, we are joined by a local guide who takes the lead on the tour that day. The first city we visited outside of Moscow was Kazan; and since Ekatrina is from that city, she was our local guide that day as well.

So far we have spent a day touring Moscow, a day in Kazan and a day in Yekaterinburg. Both Kazan Yekaterinburg are in the top five in population with about 1.3 million each, well below Moscow (over 13 million) and Saint Petersburg. Kazan is known for its Muslim and Mongolian influence and for its religious tolerance, Yekaterinburg for its heavy industry and the site of the murder of the last Czar and his entire family by the Bolsheviks in 1917. Because of its military significance (nuclear bombs are manufactured here), it was off limits to all tourists until 1991, following the collapse of the Soviet Union.

So far, so good. The train accommodations on this special tourist train are a far cry from the train we took in 1993 when Andrew and his friend, Bronson, lead us and a dozen of our friends on a wild ride across Siberia. In those days every aspect of the experience was Spartan. The only things you could get in the dining room were vodka and dried fish. The food now is excellent and a marvel as to how they serve it so efficiently to forty or fifty people at one sitting. The cabins are small and compact but pleasant, and we have our own bathroom. So far the train has been on time and on schedule to the minute. I do not know what the non tourist Siberian train is like nowadays, but my guess is somewhat better than in 1993 but not a whole lot.

If there is any shortcoming about the tour so far it is that there is too much packed into each day. It is sort of like a cruise ship in that the train travels at night, you arrive at the next destination in the morning, spend all day touring a city and return to the train, which departs late afternoon or early evening. My walking app shows we are walking between five and seven miles a day and that is good, but it borders on being too much and sometimes comes awfully close to a forced march. We are exhausted at the end of the day. But so far it has been worth it, and we have learned and are learning a lot more about Russia. That we will be the subject of another blog.

May 9

Moscow

Tomorrow at nine we board a bus with about 25 passengers (mainly from the US, Germany, Israel and England) to take us on a day tour of Moscow and then to the station for the Siberian railroad. There is some uncertainty as to when or if we will be able to get WiFi connections while en route. So this may be the last post you get for awhile.

It would be nice if I could sum up easily the contradictions we see in Moscow. I can’t but will do the best I can. I think that it boils down to this: most people understand why the nationalism is happening. No one knows where it will end. For intellectuals, artists, business people and professionals this is very unsettling. For some it is terrifying.

Here is the “story line” as I see it:

1. Russia has a long history of being a powerful nation. This goes back to the czars and continued through the communist era. People suffered under both the czars and the communists, and the pain of losing 28 million people in World War II is beyond anything I can imagine. (Virtually all of the one million plus marchers had photographs of loved ones, usually multiple photographs.) It is mostly a sad history but also a proud one.
2. Many Russians believe the prestige and honor that goes with being a powerful nation was lost beginning in the late 1980s when the Soviet Union came apart at the seams.
3. While many have benefitted greatly from the transformation from a communist state to a (sort of) capitalistic one, the majority of Russians have not and are resentful of losing the social safety net they had in the past. Nowadays babushkas are on almost every corner pan handling. (I asked where the old men all were, and the answer was that they are dead. Hardly any men live past 60.) The human mind tends to forget the bad and remember the good. Nostalgia for the “good old days” that never existed under communism is prevalent among many average  Russians, so we are told.
4. Sanctions and lower oil prices have taken a toll not only on the poor but those struggling to break into the emerging middle class. Average Russians are feeling the pain. For reasons I can’t fathom most prices are outrageously high, so you get the idea that there is injustice. Sound a little like the US? Perhaps but if so, this country is the US on steroids.
5. Enter Vladimir Putin. Putin is popular with the average Russian (85% approval) for two reasons: first he brings stability because he is a strong man (and Russia has never demonstrated it can handle governance without a strong man), and second he is committed to bringing back at least some of Russia’s lost prestige and glory. The Crimea was the first step toward the “restoration of glory” agenda, The Ukraine is the second. The average Russian loves it.
6. To restore honor and glory, it helps if you have an enemy, something to distract people from thinking about how bad things are. Right now the US is enemy. Obama has been described by some in Russia as the new Hitler, mainly because of the sanctions (sound familiar? Just ask the Tea Party.) and the US the new fascist state.
7. The big question is where does this end. Witnessing the first military parade today—the goose stepping soldiers, the tanks, planes and missile launchers—you get the feeling that this might be a little like Germany in the 1930s. But while the big show of military might is abhorrent, I do not believe that the parallel is accurate. Putin is not a Hitler. The big question then is who is Putin and how far will he go? This is what has everyone biting their nails, both in Russia and in other countries. While extremes and excesses abound, Moscow has changed for the better by almost any standard. When we were here in 1993, there was nothing. What Putin needs to do is to rein in some of the excesses of rampant, cowboy capitalism but not return to a nostalgic past that was in reality a nightmare. He also must know that the West will not permit retaking the countries lost following the collapse of the Soviet Union.

The stakes are high, no less than the survival of the planet. Just check out the ICBMs that everyone cheered about when they rolled by today. One of these goes off and it is over. Let’s hope he can maneuver this tricky minefield without everyone (both sides) getting blown up or innocent Russians getting harmed as scapegoats.

Now off to Siberia. Will keep writing and post when I can.

May 9

Moscow

The evening at the Bolshoi last night could not have been better. We walked from our hotel about two miles down the main avenue and reached the famous theater about a half hour early allowing us time to enjoy the warm evening and watch all the construction action on the plaza in front of the theater in preparation for the big day tomorrow—the 70^th anniversary of VE Day.

The ballet was “Don Quixote,” composed, and choreographed by Russians, premiering in 1867 at the Bolshoi. The program said this was “Don Quixote’s” 1,066^th performance at the Bolshoi. I have never experienced a ballet like this one, and we have seen a lot of good ones in Washington. The Bolshoi is, quite simply, the best in the world. There is a fine line separating great from the very best, but you know it when you see it, and we saw it last night.

Russians love their ballet . A packed house was standing, applauding and screaming “Bravo, bravo” for something like the twelfth curtain call when Embry and I started for the exit. What distinguished this audience from a Kennedy Center audience were the many families with children and the generally younger age of everyone present. I could not help thinking what extraordinary people these Russians are. They have produced the likes of Tolstoy, Dostoevsky, Chekov, Pushkin, Tchaikovsky, Prokofiev, Shostakovich just to name a few. They are among the word’s best poets, writers, composers, artists, scientists, and intellectuals. In Moscow more statues (it seems) honor artists and intellectuals than army generals. And thankfully there is not one statue of Stalin anywhere or any other communist leader except Lenin (at least that I have seen). You can’t help thinking how much we have in common with them and how we are all humans, just trying to live our short lives as best we can.

Fast forward 12 hours. It is May 9, VE Day, marking the end of the European conflict in World War II and Russia’s victory over Germany in a war that cost the Russians 26 million lives. Described as the biggest Victory Parade ever, this parade has already shut down the city a couple of days ago for dress rehearsals.

I was eager to see the festivities and made my way to the hotel lobby around 10:00 am, the time for parade to start. I was immediately blocked by a gruff policeman. No one was allowed on streets except in front of the hotel where a few people were milling around with cameras though the main street was vacant except for police and armored vehicles parked along the side. I returned to the hotel to find the lobby packed with people staring at a TV screen which was showing thousands of troops marching in Red Square. When Putin came to the podium, the room of several hundred people, almost all Russian, became eerily quiet, listening to every word.

After the speech most rushed outside. Embry and I remained for a while for breakfast, but when we saw everyone looking up and snapping photos with cell phones, we rushed outside to join them. First there was a distant rumble, then seconds later a loud roar as a squadron of seven or eight fighter jets zoomed over at a low altitude. The crowd cheered wildly. Then another wave of jets and another and another. Each time a new group of airplanes passed over, people cheered and waved red, white and blue Russian flags.

Eventually the planes quit and it was time for the tanks, troop carriers, and long range missile carriers. You could hear a rumble from the streets in the distance, then a slow prolonged roar almost as loud as the jets. They appeared one after another for what must have been at least thirty minutes: massive brown machines with guns and missile launchers of varying shapes. Every time a war machine passed us, the crowd, which was now packed along side the barriers, cheered loudly and waved their flags. Soldiers smiled and waved back. On the loudspeakers blared a song, perhaps the Russian Anthem. People sang along, some holding their hats over their hearts.

I was still trying to figure out if I should be worried about all the guns, tanks and bombs when the big military machinery moved on and in the opposite direction came another parade, this one totally different—the parade of “common people.” The parade reached our hotel around 1:30 and at 5:00 pm it was still going about five miles away when we viewed it from our second hotel (where we are meeting up with our tour group for Siberia). In the early afternoon in front of the International Hotel the mood was boisterous and relaxed. All ages were represented. Almost everyone carried photographs of one or more relatives or loved ones lost in the war. Many carried flowers and flags—some Russia, some former Soviet Union. Every so often the voice on the loudspeaker would say something and a huge , almost deafening roar would go out, like you would hear in Yankee Stadium when someone hit a grand slam home run to win the World Series.

Four hours later when they reached our new hotel, they were worn out and exhausted, which figures because they had walked at least five miles and many of the walkers were quite old.

I asked several people what this day all meant and got mostly the same explanation—that this parade honors those who died in World War II but this time it is different. There are more people marching, estimated by many as well over a million, and this time Russia is making a statement to the world to be taken seriously. That is what the military stuff is all about. A very nice attendant who helped us with our baggage said this: “This is a great day for Russia. We are a proud people. We are showing the world we are back.”

No problem with that. The question for the day is what does “back” mean.” More on that to come.

May 9

Moscow

Joe suggested I write about some of the changes I have observed in revisiting Berlin, Warsaw, and Moscow. These are all three cities I visited on two different occasions in the period just before, and just after, the break up of the former Soviet Union.

In 1988 I came with my mother on a trip to Warsaw and Berlin (at that time separated into East and West) with the Cathedral Choral Society and Charlotte Symphony Orchestra. It was a nice coincidence that these two organizations had joined together to come for a tour to Europe. I was at that time singing with CCS, and my mother was a friend of the director of the Charlotte Symphony (who lived in Davidson at the time). We traveled in a large group, with many instruments, first to Warsaw where we performed Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony with the Warsaw opera chorus in two performances, one in their huge opera house (sold out, even though there was only one poster advertising the event due to paper shortages) and then in the reconstructed old square. It was quite an experience to be singing about freedom in that situation, where hope for freedom seemed dim at the time. (We discerned this from our limited conversations with the opera chorus, who were not allowed to travel out of the country.) We were taken to a church yard where the bright red Solidarity graffiti was allowed and expressed hope for the end of Soviet rule. Otherwise the city was grey and grim, with the Soviet “wedding cake” tower oppressively towering over the city and no other visible tall landmarks. People on the street seemed sad and depressed, as if they were “carrying on,” and with many shortages in the stores (which were few and far between). Now Warsaw is a totally changed vibrant city, which Joe has written about. The proud spirit of the Polish people is everywhere present. One would think you had gone to a different city, but the “wedding cake” is still there, although now it is surrounded by some very nice tall glass buildings of the same height that seem to say “we are the future, you are the past.”

Our group then went on by train to Berlin to perform. I recall that our train was a very old one packed to the gills with “regular people” and us and all the huge instruments of an orchestra squeezed into the aisles. A poignant memory is of stopping along the way beside another adjacent train full of school children on their way to Communist Youth Camp. The children were so fresh and innocent, and excited to be trying out a few English words on “real Americans.” At the time, I remember thinking how stupid it was that our societies had been hardened into “us” and “them,” and that my own children would never get to know these children or people like them. This brought tears to my eyes as their train pulled away. (Happily, I was wrong about that.)

One of the performances of the choir was in a church in East Berlin, so we saw that side of the city.   The atmosphere there was similar to that of Warsaw, grim and depressing. The contrast between East and West was stark, with West Berlin a vibrant modern city, just a few blocks away from the grey reality of the East. We had no idea that a year later all this would change and the wall would come down in the dramatic fashion that it did.

Our trip to Russia with our children and a group of friends was just a few years later in the early 1990s. We stayed only briefly in Moscow before taking the train across Russia, and now we have only been here for a day, so my impressions are more limited concerning Moscow. However, it is evident that the dramatic changes following the breakup of the Soviet Union have had some similar economic effects here. There are many more shops and restaurants. We are staying in a beautiful western-style hotel and had dinner last night at a wonderful restaurant with good service. (These types of facilities that we take for granted at home were not available here in the early 1990s.)

However, I sense right away that there is a contrast in attitudes about the changes. In Berlin and Warsaw, there is little question by people we spoke with–and throughout the commentary in museums and public spaces–that the changes have been good for both countries (although there disparities in income and many people still suffer economically). Here, I believe we will find more ambivalence. This, after all, is the country that led the empire that was the Soviet Union. Its collapse has led to a fall in the country’s prestige, a blow for a proud people. On top of this, the country is experiencing serious economic difficulties, due to falling oil prices and sanctions from the West. Likely, this is the reason Putin is extremely popular with the “common man” (with approval ratings over 80%, in contrast to our president’s ratings under 50%).

One comes away with an acute awareness that there is never one unified perspective on history. Especially when there is a war (in this case a Cold War without armed conflict), the greatest perceived benefits will go to the victors who will write the history in their terms. Not surprisingly, those who loose the war will see it differently. We should not loose track of the fact that we have defeated a proud people who resent that, and make every effort to continue the rapprochement. Otherwise, the Cold War could become a reality again, and our peoples may again be kept apart to the advantage of no one.

May 9

Moscow

So what is wrong with this picture? You return from a visit to the dentist. You get back to your hotel and order two cups of coffee and one cup of tea for yourself and three others in the café lobby. The cost for the dentist is $30 US, the four drinks, $36.

Welcome to Russia! We are in Moscow.

We arrived here on Wednesday. Today is Friday. So we have only been here three days. I have totally lost track. It seems like months.

We were met at the train (which miraculously arrived exactly on time despite a three hour delay in Brest, which I now gather was just part of the program) by Masha, a Russian friend of Andrew’s, whom he met at INSEAD, the international business school he attended near Paris. Masha was an executive at Moscow Coca Cola for quite a while and now has her own consulting practice in strategic marketing. She was our handler for the day. She is a complete delight—sharp, intelligent, lots of energy, articulate and a fresh perspective on what is happening in this wild and strange country. We talked over coffee (yes, about a $50 tab when you throw in a croissant or two); and in the afternoon she gave Embry a tour of the neighborhood and an introduction to the Metro system (while I took a nap).

The hotel (International Moscow Tverskaya) is the fanciest we have stayed in yet and a huge step up from the rather modest hotel in Warsaw. Yet despite the outrageous cost for coffee, the cost is reasonable–about $175 a night, around what you would expect to pay in the US this for a hotel this nice , maybe less. Rooms are large, lobby elegant, free mini bar, first class fitness center and spa—the whole works. Men wearing dark suits, white dress shirts with no tie, and sparkling black shoes come in and out of the lobby, smoke cigarettes outside the main entrance and gather in groups looking serious and speaking what sounds like Russian. I envision some business deal in the works or does it have something to do with the big Word War Il victory celebrations this weekend?

We were so tired after the all-nighter from Warsaw that we grabbed a light dinner at a modest café around the corner and turned in early. Food was delicious and reasonable, about the same amount that we spent on the coffee a few hours earlier and in line with US and Western Europe prices. We needed to rest up. Tomorrow would be Sasha day.

Sasha was Andrew’s best friend in the 1980s when he took his junior year abroad, and they have remained friends ever since. Both were interested in music, which Sasha has pursued as a career and is now recognized internationally as one of the best choral arts directors in Russia and probably the world. He directs a renown, all male, Jewish chorus, which has sung in the US and most European countries many times.

Sasha met us in the hotel lobby at ten in the morning, complaining passionatley about the main avenue (Tverskaya) being shut off for a dress rehearsal of the big parade on Saturday, forcing him to have to park several blocks away. Sasha is one of those larger-than-life people with unstoppable energy , an opinion on everything, and a charisma that makes you want to buy whatever he is selling. Getting to know him was in itself worth the trip to Moscow. He took us to various off-the-beaten-path neighborhoods, to one of the most beautiful Metro stations (most have murals, many worthy of art museums), the old Russian Orthodox Cathedral, and the synagogue where his grandfather was a pillar of the congregation. We didn’t get his whole life story, but we got a lot of it—how one grandfather was murdered by the Nazis when he was captured after his plane went down and they forced him to drop his pants, exposing his circumcision. The other grandfather was imprisoned under Stalin and was scheduled to be executed, saved only by Stalin’s death. He ended up living until he was almost 95, and Andrew knew him. It was not—and is not—easy being Jewish in Russia. Sasha is married and has one five-year-old daughter, the same age as Andrew’s kids (now five and six).

After a delightful lunch in a very nice, non tourist café (cafeteria style, total cost for three people about the same as the coffee), we drove some more, heard more stories and were deposited back at our hotel around three, totally exhausted. Sasha presented us with free tickets for a concert that evening at the Moscow Conservatory, which turned out to the best seats in the house for a fabulous concert featuring arias from famous Russian operas, though without a program in English we were clueless as to which ones.

This morning Andrew’s housekeeper when he lived in Moscow, Galina, now 85, came to visit us in the hotel along with her daughter (our age), who speaks a little English. After coffee at the hotel they took Embry for a tour of the side streets in our neighborhood. The tour was quite interesting, and Galina hardly slowed down during the hour or so they strolled along cobble stone streets and back alleys.

I was not able to join them because today was “errand day” for me—finally tracking down a dentist to take a look at my teeth (suspected lost filling) and also trying to find an Apple Store to help me get my apps running (no luck). After the walk with Galina and her daughter Embry visited an art museum (Tretyakov) specializing in Russian impressionist and icon art. The Bolshoi is tonight. Busy day.

Three observations: the first about Moscow in general, the second about Russian health care and the third about economic imbalances.

How Russia Has Changed. We visited Russia in 1993 when Andrew was doing “privatization” consulting for Deloitte and Touche. Moscow now is a completely different city. Then it was drab and grey with few stores of any type and no outside investment from multinational companies. Today every super luxury retail chain is present, selling stuff at prices that are roughly twice what they would be in the US or Western Europe. All the big luxury hotel chains are here. Huge skyscrapers have popped up in new financial districts. There are luxury condo high rises. Cafés and ultra high end restaurants are abundant and often full. The city has the energy and the edginess of New York. Fancy Mercedes, BMWs, and even Rolls-Royces are everywhere. That a city can change so much in only 25 years is remarkable.

Russian Health Care. The dental issue is that I suspect that I lost a filling while in Brittany. Thanks to Mireille, I was able to see a dentist in Paris, who said my teeth were fine; but I wanted a second opinion before setting off to Siberia. Andrew got one of his Russian friends to recommend a dental office, and I looked them up on the internet and sent them an email. In less than a half hour I got an appointment for the next day complete with directions, a photo of the building and a Google map. It was a bit of a challenge getting there (maps use the English script but the actual street names are in Russian script, no similarity); but when I did finally find the place, I was met by an English speaking “handler” who got me registered and into a dental chair without having to wait. The dental practice of this large health practice (Medsi) took up an entire floor of an eleven story building occupied entirely by this health provider. There were doctors and nurses everywhere, and everything was clean and sparkling, a far cry from what John and I experienced in Berlin. The doctor spoke little English but was polite, professional and seemed to know his stuff. He too said “no problem” and even brought in a colleague for a another opinion. In explaining his diagnosis he typed on his computer in Russian while in the second column on the screen the English translation appeared. He asked in broken English what I did for a living, if I had children or grandchildren and how I liked Russia. He smiled and wished me well as I departed, saying either “Obama ok and Putin crazy” or vice versa, I was not sure which, but like to think it was the former. Total cost: $30. The entire experience was very similar to what we would get at Kaiser, the large HMO we belong to in Washington.

Imbalances. I will address this issue further in a subsequent blog. The bottom line: in terms of the economy, what seems to be happening right now in Moscow just does not make any sense. Prices are all over the map but generally way out of line with US and Western Europe at a time when sanctions and low oil prices are hurting ordinary Russian people. We are told average salaries are around half what they are in the US, and much of their safety net has been dismantled. Yes, there are oligarchs and some people who make lots of money, but they have to be a small minority. There is no way that the ordinary Russian can afford most of what is in the stores—shoes in average shops with prices of $250-$500, clothes about the same. Who is buying this stuff? Where is the money coming from? And in the midst of all this, there are lots of weathered, old women (babushkas) standing on street corners with empty cuts asking for money. Something is out of whack.

There are also signs of trouble. Stay tuned for the next post.

May 5

En route to Moscow from Warsaw

The good news is that we are on the overnight train from Warsaw to Moscow. The bad news is that we seem to have lost our ticket and risk being thrown off at the next backwater village. The odd thing is that we had the ticket when the conductor came by and have not left our compartment. I am assuming he must have taken it. We will see what happens.

In the meantime it is about 90 degrees in our tiny two-bunk compartment, and there is no café car. And we are creeping along as if we were in the US. No bullet train today. Welcome to Eastern Europe!

Actually getting on the train was half the fun. After some effort to determine which platform the train would be on, we went to platform 2 where a herd of anxious people were waiting; and one friendly English-speaking guy wearing a blue, plaid shirt confirmed that this was the Moscova platform. (He too was headed to Moscow.) Then all of a sudden –at the approximate time the train was supposed to arrive–after an incomprehensible announcement, everyone on the platform started running madly toward the escalator including the guy with the blue plaid shirt. We madly rushed behind him and the mob, which appeared headed for platform 1, where a train was waiting, conductors looking at their watches impatiently, and people desperately running for the doors. We were dead last (since our car was at the rear of the train and we had longer to go and more luggage to pull), and the conductor hurried us up and helped us pull up our 50 pound suitcases as the train started to move.

Whew! We are on our way to Moscow where we will arrive in about 20 hours if we make it through Belarus border control and don’t get thrown off for losing our ticket.

But what about about Warsaw? In a word, it was terrific. Warsaw is definitely a sleeper. Embry was here on a choir tour in 1988 (along with her mother, who joined her since the Charlotte Symphony was accompanying the Cathedral Choral Society in a performance of Beethoven’s 9^th Symphony). In those days it was grim: dull grey buildings, no advertising of any sort, empty restaurants, all owned by the state, offering lousy food with poor service, no evidence that anything new had been built for a long time, limited food options in the stores, and an atmosphere of gloom. In short it was a poster child for the Soviet Occupation. Ironically, it was only a year later—in 1989—that the Soviet Union collapsed; and shortly after that Poland gained its independence. No one Embry talked to in 1988 had a clue that this was coming.

So what is Warsaw like today? It is a complete sea change from what is was 25 years ago. It is certainly not a Madrid, Paris or Berlin, but it is a thriving city with energy and vitality and optimism and hope for the future. There are perhaps a dozen new tall glass office buildings with 30 or more stories, a number of elegant hotels, most of the major hotel chains, shopping malls and street fronts with all the major retail chains, countless restaurants offering a wide range of food, bright lights and a lot of restoration still in progress. Most impressive is the restoration of the “Old Town,” rebuilt from drawings and other documents, since most of it was destroyed in World War II along with the rest of Warsaw. A lot of money has gone into rebuilding and restoring Warsaw. The Old Town now feels very much like the older sections of Madrid or Valencia. There are numerous outdoor cafes and small shops and several large plazas. And the restoration actually covers a fairly large area, similar to Georgetown or Capitol Hill. It was jammed packed, full of people both days we visited.

What made our first visit to Old Town special was that the day–May 3, our first full day in the city–was Constitution Day, celebrating the fact that Poland has the oldest constitution in Europe (and which is older than the US Constitution). The main street of Old Town was decorated with red and white Polish flags, and thousands of people lined the streets on this beautiful, sunny day to hear speeches and watch the dignitaries parade up the long avenue accompanied by bands and marching soldiers. We stumbled upon this spectacle and enjoyed every minute (though unfortunately John stayed back at the hotel nursing a pulled muscle). There is terrific pride here as evidenced by people waiving miniature Polish flags, wearing small red and white buttons and ribbons and the exuberant spirit of the crowd.

And they have good reason to be proud. Warsaw was obliterated by the Nazis and did not fare much better under the long Soviet occupation. But these two occupations were only the most recent in a long chain of conquests going back to the Middle Ages—Prussia and Russia being the primary culprits. For many years they were not even considered a country at all. There is something about the Polish soul that does not give up, and which keeps outlasting the foreigners who lay claim to their homeland.

A few other observations: in terms of city planning and design, except for the restored Old Town sector, Warsaw seems a lot more like US cities than it does the Western European cities we just visited. John and I took a day trip out of the city and observed that suburban sprawl and junk advertising are pretty much on a par with US cities. The countryside is beautiful with lush fields and small farms and villages; but along the road it is KFC, McDonalds, Burger King and every kind of sign you can imagine, along with our European friend, Graffiti.

Then there is the role of the Catholic Church. According to everyone we talked to in Spain, France and Germany, the established church is for most people—especially young people, academics, intellectuals and “thinking people”—a thing of the past. Not so here. You can feel the presence of the church—clergy and nuns walking the sidewalks, clergy represented at Constitution Day, and standing room only at the large Catholic Church where we visited briefly on Sunday.

There are probably many explanations, but one is that in Spain, Germany and France, the Church generally took the side of the bad guys, tacitly supporting Franco, the Vichy Government and Hitler. In Poland, they were clearly supportive of and instrumental in the Liberation effort during and following the Soviet occupation. It is refreshing to experience a Church seems to be very vital in people’s lives.

Finally, a word on sports heroes. There is a seven foot center who plays for the Washington Wizards who is from Poland whose name is Marcin Gortat, known as the “Polish Hammer.” When I mentioned this to the driver of the car John and I were traveling in yesterday on our day trip, he perked up and exclaimed, “Gortat? Scored 12 points yesterday and the Wizards beat the Hawks in the playoffs! Everyone in Poland loves Gortat!”

(In my effort to understand the graffiti phenomenon, I asked Peter, our driver, to help me understand why there is so much graffiti, to which he answered, “You should know. We got it from the US.”)

Finally, a special thanks to John and Grace Curry for joining us for this part of the trip. They enjoyed doing the same kind of things we did, and we had great fun being with them in Germany and Poland. As we make our way to Moscow, they are now on a plane to Frankfurt where they will spend a day before heading home. We will miss them.

(We just got a text message from John saying that the driver of a “private cab” spit in his face when he paid less than expected when vacating the cab. Hope that does not ruin for them the memories of this extraordinary city.)

Yesterday Embry and Grace took the bullet train to Krakow, and John and I hired a driver to take us to Auschwitz. That is the subject of the an accompanying post.

May 6

Warsaw

The other thing we did while in Warsaw was take a day trip to Auschwitz. John and I hired a driver to take us on the four hour drive to get there. Embry and Grace decided to take the bullet train to Krakow, one of the few Medieval towns spared by the Napoleonic and 20^th century wars. (Embry had visited Auschwitz in her earlier trip to Poland.)

I suppose there are few people who do not have an image of Auschwitz, especially people our age. We have seen the photographs. We have read articles and perhaps books. We know it was awful and horrendous.

But it is also true that you really do not get the complete picture until you see it first hand. You stand in the gas chambers where toward the end of the war more than 20,000 persons a day, mainly Jews, were being murdered. You stand where the medical official separated those who went immediately to the gas chambers, almost all the women, children and elderly, from those who would be given a reprieve of weeks or perhaps months to do the dirty work—remove dead bodies from the chambers, clean the latrines, construct more barracks, or anything else they were told to do. These “lucky ones,” mainly boys and men between 14 and 40, worked at least twelve hours a day, got soup and bread to eat if they were lucky, and usually died of exhaustion or starvation within weeks.

You see the torture chambers where “unruly” prisoners were put into tiny cells with no light and suffocated or starved to death slowly.

You hear that one of the chief factors for using gas to kill the prisoners in addition to being more efficient was that it was more painful to the victim. Considerable effort went into perfecting the technique to enhance the pain inflicted. The procedure which they eventually settled on took and an average time of around 20 minutes to die. Those who were still alive that time were shot.

You look at the bunks—wood or concrete, no mattresses or padding– where perhaps three people could have managed to sleep uncomfortably but were routinely occupied by six or seven. You see the mountains of shoes, the tons of hair, the prayer shawls, the piles of suitcases and the photographs, which are the most chilling of all. All prisoners were photographed upon entering Auschwitz. There they are: kids who would have been in school or on the playground. Mothers and fathers, grandparents, just normal people whose only crime was being a Jew (or gay or a gypsy or physically handicapped or mentally ill). There was no room for these “misfits” in the Super Race that Hitler intended to create which would rule the world for a thousand years.

At its height, the Auschwitz death-machine accommodated on any given day over 90,000 people in two locations less than a mile apart. There were more than 4,000 guards and police there each day keeping them in line. One million deaths were officially recorded between 1941 and 1945. The actual number was closer to 1.5 million. In the various camps located across Nazi Europe, over six million Jews were murdered, more than half of all the Jews in Europe. By 1945 Hitler was well along the way to eliminating the entire Jewish population. Had the US not entered the war and had the Allies not defeated the Nazis, he could well have succeeded.

Yes, we all know this story. But actually being at Auschwitz, seeing it with your own eyes and walking in the same paths as the prisoners did–well, it is different.

Of course, the big question is how could this have happened. This was not the Middle Ages. This was not a “backward” country. This happened just over 50 years ago in one of the most advanced, most well-educated parts of the planet, a region which had produced the world’s greatest music, philosophy, theology and art. It happened in an area that was officially Christian.

When we look at what is going on in Syria and elsewhere in the Middle East and north Africa and conclude that “those people” are barbarians, let us not forget the Holocaust. For “Westerners,” this happened on our watch, in our back yard, not in some remote, “backward” area. This is our legacy.

I have to admit that for years I have been prejudiced towards the Germans. The German population elected Hitler in the first place and acquiesced as the rules of the game changed. They may not have had all the details; but they surely knew Jews were disappearing from their communities and going somewhere. Why didn’t they rebel? Why didn’t they overthrow this maniac, this demon? What was wrong with the Germans?

I now do not see this as exclusively a German problem but rather a human one. The Germans are not any different from the rest of us. We humans are herd animals. We may complain about politics, but we need leaders and ultimately we follow them. That is just the way we humans are. We live our own lives and let the chips fall. If an action does not affect us personally, most of us simply go about our daily lives. We don’t fight back, especially when the consequences to us and our families may be dire. The problem with Germany was they got Hitler.

That is why leadership is so important and why good leaders ultimately make all the difference. I know it is not only leaders, but that surely is part of it.

But to be honest, I am stumped. Why do we live in a world where the Holocaust happened? Where does God fit into all this? How can God be all powerful and all good? Why is the church more often than not a bystander and upon occasion an enabler of really bad things? There are no answers, only questions. This is the human condition.

May 5

Belarus

So what is it like to cross from Poland into Belarus?

Our train reached the border with Belarus around seven pm. The first group to board were dressed in Polish military uniforms. They asked where were going and why we were on the train, looked at our visas, smiled, and wished us well. I breathed a sigh of relief, thinking that this obstacle of getting into one of the world’s most inhospitable countries was overcome. The train crept along for about 15 minutes when I looked out and spotted a guard post. In five minutes the train had stopped again, and a different military group boarded the train. They did not look happy.The conductor told us we were in Brest, which is in Belarus.

We had our door open, and suddenly someone slammed it shut. We waited patiently for several minutes until two officers in brown uniforms abruptly opened our door and demanded our passports, then started searching our tiny compartment. Oddly they did not open our luggage but looked under our mattresses. I was secretly hoping they might find my missing cell phone, the one stolen by the two-year-old in Brittany. They asked essentially the same questions as the other soldiers, gave us stern looks, some forms to fill out, took the passports and disappeared.

In about 30 minutes they returned with the passports, frowned and nodded that everything was in order. We had cleared Belarus passport control. How sweet these small victories!

Then came the onslaught. The onslaught consisted of three different women—all in their 20s or 30s and pretty, who appeared one after the other, selling exactly the same food—beer, Russian vodka, warm, baked chicken wrapped in newspaper, potatoes wrapped in thin plastic wrap and large pickles. We ended up buying chicken, potatoes, pickles and beer from the first two women. When the third one appeared about five minutes later, we had already purchased all the food we wanted and were low on money. So we refused. But she would not leave us alone, badgering us for a good five minutes before she finally admitted defeat and left. We locked the door behind her. It reminded me of being in Egypt.

Part of the challenge was that they spoke no English and for whatever reason demanded to be paid only in euros, which I had already cashed in for rubles at the train station. When it became apparent that we had no euros, they reluctantly agreed to take the equivalent of five euros, which they said was 3,000 rubbles. I had no idea of what the exchange rate was and cheerfully handed over 3,000 rubles as requested, discovering afterwards that the exchange rate is 55 rubbles per dollar, which meant we had paid $60.00. Nice windfall for the ladies.

The food, however, was delicious, probably even worth the money when you consider there was no café car . According to Embry the potatoes were the best she had ever eaten and in my opinion the chicken was not far behind.

After the conductor chased the ladies off the train, it moved very slowly into what appeared to be some kind of repair facility where we sat for a while with intermittent slams and jerks. And then we sat and sat and sat. By 9:45 pm we were rolling again, a delay of about three hours. As we pulled out of the repair facility–or whatever it was– a huge, orange full moon rose over the mostly dark buildings in Brest. Welcome to the Russian Federation! Onward Toward Moscow!

The night went much better than expected and we both got a fairly decent sleep, waking up around six to sun shining through the mist and sparkling, delicate green leaves just popping out in early spring. The houses now were wooden, many in disrepair, resembling the shacks you used to see along railroad tracks in the US and still exist in parts of Appalachia. There were lots of small vegetable plots but no visible cultivation of large fields like we had seen in Western Europe, some early signs that Russia was going to be very different.